Persian-spiced Lamb Shanks

4 meaty lamb shanks (ask for the hind shanks), about 4 1/2 to 5 pounds
Salt
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 teaspoon ground dried rosebuds, optional
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon turmeric
Vegetable oil
¼ teaspoon crumbled saffron
Juice of 2 limes, about 4 tablespoons
3 teaspoons rosewater, available from Middle Eastern grocery shops
1 large onion, roughly chopped
½ teaspoon ground dried lime, or the zest of 1 fresh lime
Zest of 1 orange, plus 1 tablespoon more for garnish
A few thyme sprigs
2 fresh bay leaves
6 cups hot chicken broth or water
2 tablespoons roughly chopped parsley, for garnish
2 tablespoons roughly chopped mint or dill, for garnish

• Trim any excess fat from lamb shanks and season generously with salt.
• Mix together the cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, rosebuds (if using), black pepper and turmeric.
• Sprinkle evenly over shanks and rub into meat.
• Let sit at room temperature at least an hour, or wrap and refrigerate overnight, then bring to room temperature.
• Place a Dutch oven or deep, heavy pot over medium-high heat and add oil to a depth of 1/2 inch.
• When oil is hot, add 2 lamb shanks and fry until nicely browned on all sides, about 5 minutes.
• Remove and set aside, then brown the 2 remaining shanks.
• Meanwhile, put saffron in a small bowl with lime juice, 2 teaspoons rosewater and 1/2 cup warm water.
• Let steep for 10 minutes.
• Heat oven to 350 degrees.
• Carefully remove all but 2 tablespoons oil from Dutch oven.
• Add chopped onion and cook over medium heat until softened and lightly colored, 8 to 10 minutes.
• Season onion with salt, then add lime zest, orange zest, thyme sprigs and bay leaves.
• Stir in saffron mixture.
• Lay in the lamb shanks and add the broth.
• Bring to a boil, then turn off heat and cover pot.
• Transfer pot to oven and bake for about 1 1/2 hours, covered, until meat is tender when probed and beginning to fall from the bone.
• Remove lamb shanks to a deep serving dish and keep warm.
• Strain braising juices through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, pressing with a wooden spoon to obtain all the liquid (discard thyme, bay leaves and onions).
• Skim fat, then taste and add salt if necessary.
• Add 1 more teaspoon rosewater, if desired.
• Reheat strained juices and pour over lamb shanks.
• Combine parsley, mint and reserved orange zest and sprinkle over top.
• Use a large spoon to break the tender shank meat into large chunks.
• Serve in low, wide soup plates, giving each portion a spoonful of the juices.
• Accompany with steamed Basmati rice, lavash flatbread or a loaf of crusty French bread.

Serves 4